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Kvaløya (Whale Island) is the fifth largest island in Norway and one of the best places to visit near Tromso.
We visited in winter and loved the island’s stunning fjords, snowy mountains, golden sandy beaches, frozen lakes, and colourful fishing villages. It’s also a top spot for seeing the northern lights.
It has a remote feel but is easily accessible across the bridge from Tromso Airport.
We spent three nights on Kvaloya Island, but you could visit as a day trip from Tromso, either driving yourself or taking a tour.
There are a few fun activities on Kvaloya, like husky dog sledding (a must-do!), but it’s also a wonderful place just to drive around, enjoy the beautiful scenery, perhaps spot a reindeer, and warm up in a cosy cafe.
In this post, I share our favourite things to do in Kvaloya and its neighbouring tiny island, Sommaroy.
I also include tips on how to get there and where to stay, as well as a Kvaloya map with everything mentioned.
Contents
- Where is Kvaloya?
- How to Get from Tromso to Kvaloya
- Tips for Driving Around Kvaloya
- Best Things to Do in Kvaloya in Winter
- Where to Stay on Kvaloya
- Self Catering on Kvaloya
- Kvaloya Island Map
- Is Kvaloya Worth Visiting?
- More Tromso Tips
Where is Kvaloya?
Kvaloya is located in Northern Norway near the city of Tromso, 350km north of the Arctic Circle.
The island is linked to Tromso Island by Sandnessund Bridge, so it can be reached from the airport in just five minutes.
The first part of Kvaloya is more suburban, but here are some driving distances from Tromso city centre to the more interesting parts of the island.
- Tromso to Ersfjordbotn – 35 minutes
- Tromso to Sommaroy – 1 hour 15 minutes
- Tromso to Tromvik – 1 hour 10 minutes
You should allow plenty of time as driving may take longer in the snow.
How to Get from Tromso to Kvaloya
There are public buses to Kvaloya (check the Svipper app), but they run infrequently, so they aren’t the best way to explore. It’s better to rent a car or take a tour.
Car Rental
We rented a car from Tromso Airport as we prefer to explore independently and wanted to stay on the island, hoping to see the northern lights.
However, if you visit Kvaloya in winter, driving conditions are challenging, with icy, snowy, narrow roads.
I only recommend renting a car if you are a confident driver with some experience driving on snow.
Read more about driving in Tromso in winter in my guide to the best things to do in Tromso.
We rented the smallest car (a Yaris automatic) with Avis via Booking Car Rentals. Book far in advance for the best deals.
Kvaloya Tours
If you are not comfortable with driving in the snow, you can take tours to the islands from Tromso city centre.
This five-hour Arctic Road Trip from Tromso visits Kvaloya. The maximum group size is 15 people, and it includes a light lunch and photos.
If you want to visit Sommaroy as well, this Fjords and Sommarøy Islands Tour drives through Kvaloya on the way to Sommaroy, where you stop for a picnic on a beach.
A Warning About Bridge Closures
One thing to note: on our way back to Tromso from Kvaloya, Sandnessund Bridge, the bridge connecting the two islands, was closed due to high winds. We were stuck in a traffic queue for 90 minutes waiting for it to reopen.
The only alternative would have been to drive hours out of the way to enter Tromso Island across another bridge, and we would have missed our car hire drop-off time.
I don’t think this is very common, but it’s something to be aware of. I wouldn’t recommend driving from Kvaloya on the day of a flight.
Tips for Driving Around Kvaloya
- Download the Google Map for Kvaloya offline before you set out. Although, there aren’t many roads so navigation was easy and we had signal everywhere.
- Bring a packed lunch in case the rare cafes are closed (check opening hours).
- In winter, pack extra layers, water, and snacks in your car in case you get stuck.
- Public toilets are often closed in winter, so plan bathroom breaks around cafes (and the campsite at Reina Beach on Sommaroy).
- Microspikes for your shoes are very useful if you want to walk in winter. See our Tromso winter packing list for details.
- Dress warmly!
- Everywhere we went accepted credit cards. We didn’t use cash at all in Norway.
- Check sunrise and sunset times before you set out, and try to avoid driving in the dark.
Best Things to Do in Kvaloya in Winter
1) Visit Ersfjordbotn
Ersfjordbotn is the first stop I recommend on Kvaloya, about 20 minutes from the airport and 35 minutes from Tromso city centre.
This village is located on Ersfjord with magnificent views of the inlet, snowy mountains on either side, fishing boats bobbing in the water, and the red wooden houses that feel so Norwegian.
We stayed here right on the water at Ersfjordbotn Brygge (see the review below) and loved watching the changing light with vibrant sunrises and sunsets. At dusk, as the village lights came on, it felt like a scene from a Christmas card.
On the way into the village, you can stop at Ersfjord Viewpoint to see the fjord from above. We somehow never managed to do this (we had terrible weather for most of our stay).
You can then drive down to water level for a closer look at the fjord. It makes sense to park by Bryggejentene (open 9am-4pm, closed Sundays), a cosy cafe and store selling homewares and foodie items. They ask you not to take photos inside.
Order at the counter, then try to grab a table by the window for fjord views. We had tea and coffee, but the cakes and buns looked tempting.
On our walk back through the village at dusk, we even saw a couple of reindeer! Others said they had seen one at the viewpoint.
If you are feeling active, you could do the 3.4km hike up to Nattmålsfjellet, 291 meters above sea level, for beautiful views. We didn’t have time for this (the short days in winter limit what you can do).
In winter, you will probably need shoeshoes, and download the Alltrails map as the trail is hard to follow in snow.
2) Explore the Beaches on Sommaroy
From Ersfjordbotn, there are two driving routes I recommend. One heads west to Sommaroy on the 862 and the other north to Tromvik.
You could possibly combine the two routes if you started early and had enough daylight, but we did them on two different days. Ersfjordbotn is in the middle of the two routes.
Sommaroy (Summer Island) is a tiny island connected by a bridge to Kvaloya. It’s known for its sandy beaches, and fishing is the main industry.
The Drive to Sommaroy
The drive from Tromso to Sommaroy is about 1 hour 15 minutes. From Ersfjordbotn, it’s 50 minutes to Sommaroy and very scenic.
First, you drive inland through a valley past snowy mountains and the frozen lake Kattfjordeidet. This is supposed to be a good spot for viewing the northern lights (there are a few parking spots by the road). We didn’t stop because it was snowing, and you couldn’t even tell it was a lake.
The road then follows several gorgeous fjords. Past Nordfjordbotn, the water was even frozen, which is rare around here, and the beaches further along were full of large chunks of ice.
The weather is more extreme in this part of the island. The snow fell heavily on our way there and back, whereas it was dry on Sommaroy, which faces the open sea.
In better weather, we would have stopped for views at places like the beach Sandviksletta.
Ørnfløya Walk
Just before the bridge to Sommaroy is Ørnfløya, a small hill where you can do a 2km/one-hour return walk for views of Sommaroy.
We decided against it, as we wouldn’t have seen anything on a snowy day.
In winter, spikes for your shoes are a good idea for the icy downhill or even snowshoes if there has been a lot of snow (the trail only had patches of snow when we drove past).
Be careful parking in winter. The parking area at the trailhead marked Ørnfløya Parkering on Google Maps is just a verge by the side of the road covered in snow.
We saw a car stuck in the snow and read the same thing on the AllTrails listing (always worth checking for recent conditions).
It’s better to drive further down the road in either direction where we saw more solid-looking parking spots by the road (one at the intersection with Sandneshamnvegen).
Steinsvika Archeological Site and Walk
Our first stop after driving over Sommaroy Bridge was Steinsvika Archeological Site.
There’s not much to see of the Iron Age farmstead here, but there’s a large car park (toilets closed in winter) and picnic tables overlooking Steinsvika beach.
Even on a cloudy day, we could see why Sommaroy is famous for its beaches, with their crystal clear turquoise water. I was almost tempted to take a dip in the sea.
There aren’t many easy walking trails off the road on Kvaloya, so I definitely recommend taking a walk along the coast here.
Walk up the small slope at the far end of Steinsvika for a view of even lovelier Kvitnesvika.
However, we could not have done it without microspikes, as even small slopes were treacherously icy.
Keep following the coastal path for as long as you want past more snow-sprinkled beaches.
We walked about 20 minutes to a larger beach around the headland before turning back.
It’s a stunning place, and we didn’t see anyone else on our walk (although they were setting up a picnic for a tour group at Steinsvika).
Prestvika Cafe
We left our car at Steinsvika and walked eight minutes to Prestvika Strandkafé.
This quirky, rustic cafe opened in September 2024 in a converted boat shed on the beach.
Hot drinks and tasty homemade cakes and buns are self-service, and you can ask for soup and open-face sandwiches.
We enjoyed herbal tea and cinnamon buns fresh from the oven while we chatted with owner Gjertrud, who swims in the chilly sea every day throughout the year.
It’s a lovely, unique place to shelter from the cold. They eventually plan to offer a sauna, making sea dips much more appealing!
Prestvika Strandkafé is open from 12pm-4pm on Tuesday and Wednesday and 12pm – 6pm Thursday to Saturday. It’s closed on Sunday and Monday.
Note that the toilet is across the street in the owner’s house.
Reina Beach
After returning to our car, we drove a few minutes to Reina Beach, which has beautiful views of jagged Håja Island, reportedly the inspiration for the Arctic Cathedral in Tromso.
To access Reina, you can park at Sommaroy Camping & Marina, which thankfully has a paid toilet open in winter (you can pay at the machines with a card).
Hillesøya
Sommaroy is tiny, so it didn’t take long to reach the end of the island, where we crossed the bridge to another small island, Hillesøya.
The Sommaroy Arctic Hotel is located here and looks like a nice place to stay, especially if you want to see the northern lights and enjoy a sauna.
We didn’t get far before reaching the end of the road, as most of Hillesøya is dominated by a mountain.
If you are feeling energetic, you could walk up Hillesoytoppen (Nordkollen). It’s only 1.6km/1 hour return, but it’s a steep climb with ropes to help you up in parts.
I would have liked to have done this, but we were aware of losing daylight and the snowy valley we had to drive back through.
We made a quick stop at a small beach to see the cute wooden huts marked as 3 Little Traditional Houses on Google Maps.
Please be aware of where you park, though, and don’t go too close to the houses as they are private property.
3) Take a Scenic Drive to Tromvik
The other driving route on Kvaloya that we did was from Tromso to Tromvik, which takes about 1 hour 10 minutes (without stops).
You’ll pass through Ersfjordbotn again and then head north onto a section of Kvaloya that almost looks like a separate island, sliced up by the two fjords, Kaldfjord and Ersfjord.
You drive alongside Kaldfjord and then head inland past Storvatnet, another frozen lake in winter. It feels wild and away from everything.
Grøtfjord
Our first stop was the Grøtfjord Viewpoint (20 minutes from Ersfjordbotn). Even in pouring rain, the view of the large sandy beach, village, and surrounding mountains was stunning.
This spot is supposed to be good for viewing the northern lights.
We drove down to the village, where there is a large car park by the campsite next to the beach.
Grotfjord Beach is perfect for a walk on the golden sand, with views of red houses, open seas, and mountains towering above.
Even in wild winds and rain, we loved it.
Tromvik
It’s another beautiful 20-minute drive following the edge of the fjord to Tromvik. I’m sure in better weather, there would be some lovely places to stop.
Tromvik is a fishing village with lots of boats in the harbour. There was nowhere obvious to park and wander, and as it was raining, we drove back up the hill to the cafe, Søstrene Kafè og Landhandleri, that we’d passed on the way in.
We loved the cinnamon buns, hot chocolate, and views of the village. The large terrace with outdoor seating and a fire pit would be fantastic on a calmer day.
They also have a small shop with handmade wool sweaters made by locals.
Tromvik is at the end of the road, so you have to drive back the way you came.
4) Husky Dog Sledding on Kvaloya
One of the best things to do in Kvaloya is a husky dog sledding tour.
Dashing through the winter wonderland on a sled pulled by a team of Alaskan husky dogs is exhilarating. You can even drive the sled yourself if you are physically fit and have decent balance.
There are two major kennels near Tromso, both on Kvaloya. You don’t need to stay on Kvaloya to access them, as the trip cost includes bus transport from Tromso city centre.
We chose to drive ourselves as we were staying about 25 minutes away from Arctic Adventure Tours. We did this self-drive husky dog sledding adventure.
Read more about our husky sledding experience in our guide to the best things to do in Tromso in winter.
The other operator on Kvaloya is Tromso Wilderness Center, which offers self-drive tours and tours for passengers. Their tours include lunch, but the sledding time is a bit shorter.
5) View the Northern Lights
One advantage of staying on Kvaloya is being in a prime spot to view the northern lights in winter.
There’s less light pollution than in Tromso centre, and even if you stay in a village like Ersfjordbotn, you are a short drive from lots of dark locations.
Some places to consider are:
- Ersfjord Viewpoint
- Grotfjord Beach (and the viewpoint)
- Kattfjordeide Lake
- Sommaroy (we met people who’d seen them while staying at Sommaroy Arctic Hotel)
Unfortunately, we did not see the northern lights as it was cloudy on our visit. We did see them in Tromso—our Tromso travel guide has more details.
6) Kayaking
One of the things I was most looking forward to doing on Kvaloya was kayaking in the fjords.
With a dry suit and warm layers, it doesn’t get too cold, and the views look beautiful. You might even see wildlife.
Unfortunately, our tour was cancelled due to the weather.
We had planned to do this winter sea kayaking tour. They offer pick-up from Tromso, or you can self-drive. The meeting point is 10 minutes from Ersfjordbotn.
In summer, you can also kayak on Sommaroy.
7) Snowshoeing
In summer, there are plenty of hikes on Kvaloya, but in winter, you’ll likely need snowshoes to get very far.
We ran out of time, but I’d love to do something like this guided snowshoe hike next time.
Where to Stay on Kvaloya
Ersfjordbotn Brygge (Where We Stayed)
We stayed in a two-bedroom holiday apartment at Ersfjordbotn Brygge in the village of Ersfjordbotn.
The location right on a fjord is incredible, but it’s only a 20-minute drive from the airport and 35 minutes from Tromso city centre.
The apartments are modern, clean, warm, and spacious.
The biggest downside for us was the twin beds (the second bedroom has bunk beds), which seems typical in Norwegian holiday homes.
While it was generally well equipped, we did miss a sharp knife (there was only a bread knife), shampoo and shower gel.
These are minor issues, though, because the view over the water and snowy mountains was breathtaking, especially at sunrise and sunset.
We could enjoy the view from the open plan living room/dining room/kitchen or on the balcony with table and chairs (not that we sat out there in winter).
All apartments have fjord views, but I requested an upstairs apartment (there are only two floors) where the views are even better.
We didn’t see the northern lights, but some guests have from their balconies.
We self-catered as there are no restaurants nearby. The lovely Bryggejentene cafe is a short walk away (but we were glad for our spikes on the icy road).
We loved staying in Ersfjordbotn. Our three days went quickly, and we wished we had stayed longer.
Check prices and availability for Ersfjordbotn Brygge on Booking.
Sommarøy Arctic Hotel
Another option I considered, and the only hotel I found in the area, is Sommarøy Arctic Hotel.
I decided against it as it was further from the airport and the activities we wanted to do, but I’d love to stay there next time.
The hotel has rooms as well as self-catering apartments and bungalows.
It’s ideal if you don’t want to self-cater as there’s a restaurant. The sauna (and the opportunity to cold plunge) is also a big selling point.
The northern lights viewing is supposed to be excellent.
Check prices and availability for Sommarøy Arctic Hotel on Booking.
Self Catering on Kvaloya
Most accommodation on Kvaloya is self-catering, as there are only a few cafes and no restaurants (except close to Tromso).
Fortunately, there’s an excellent supermarket on Kvaloya called Eide Handel. You’ll pass it on your way from Tromso, and it’s only 15 minutes from the airport, so it was our first stop.
There’s a surprisingly large range, including lots of international and vegan products and a pretty good bakery. The freshly squeezed orange juice was excellent, and others rave about the smoked salmon.
It has a cafe too.
Kvaloya Island Map
Is Kvaloya Worth Visiting?
Kvaloya is well worth visiting, either as a day trip from Tromso or, ideally, for a longer stay if you like remote-feeling places.
We loved the quiet atmosphere, spectacular fjord and mountain views, beautiful beaches, and fun activities like husky sledding.
Driving in winter is tricky, and you need to be careful, but you won’t see many others around.
In summer, it’s busier, but I’d love to return to enjoy the hikes and beaches.
More Tromso Tips
Read more about Tromso with our other guides:
- 12 Unmissable Things to Do in Tromso in Winter (and What to Skip)
- What to Wear in Norway in Winter: Our Packing List for Tromso
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